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Cedar Siding Products
Cedar Siding Installation Tips

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Proper Installation is a key
element in achieving the best performance from any material, including Western red cedar. As a premium, weather-friendly wood that is naturally durable with no toxic chemicals, Western red cedar has decades of proven performance in all climates as well as a well-deserved reputation for attractive appearance.
These quick tips can help you ensure a successful job. More comprehensive information is available online at the WRCLA Website. Western Red Cedar Lumber Association

1) Acclimatize the Siding Before It Is Installed
Giving the siding time to acclimatize with the local environment before it is installed will minimize movement later on and provide a better surface for the application of the finish coating. If paint is applied to wood with a high moisture content, it can reduce the service life of the finish and may cause peeling. The moisture content of the wood should be similar to what it will see in service when the job is finished.

2) Prime All Surfaces Before Installation
Coating all surfaces of the wood with a primer before installation helps protect the wood from moisture penetration as well as from staining caused by mildew and natural extractives, and can extend the service life of the top coats. Coat front and back surfaces and end cuts with an alkyd oil primer if solid stain or paint is the intended top coat. If clear, semi-transparent stain or bleaching oil is to be used, all surfaces should be coated with the product. In most cases, ordering the cedar factory-primed has many advantages over priming on-site.

3) Use Only Corrosion-Resistant Fasteners
Use only corrosion-resistant fasteners such as those of hot-dipped galvanized, aluminum or stainless steel. Other types of fasteners are not recommended, since unsightly stains and streaks can result. FOX stocks the double-dipped galvanized siding nails by Maze for this purpose.

4) Use "Splitless" Thin Shanked Nails
For best results use thin-shanked "splitless" siding nails, which can be driven close to the edges of the boards without splitting. Again, we stock the above mentioned double-dipped galvanized siding nails by Maze for this purpose.

5) Don't Overdrive the Nails
Be careful not to overdrive the fasteners because heavy driving can distort the wood and cause problems.

6) Fasten Each Piece Independently
Don't nail through the overlap of two pieces because each piece of siding must be fastened independently to allow for expansion and contraction. The key is to fasten the siding securely without preventing it from moving in response to the moisture content of the air.

7) Start Bevel Siding Installation with the Bottom Course
Start with the bottom course and use a furring strip to support the lower edge. The bottom edge of each succeeding course should overlap the top edge of the previous one by 1 inch. (Siding more than 10 in. wide can have a larger overlap.)

8) Stagger Butt Joints
Butt Joints between the boards should be staggered and made on the studs. Fit the siding snugly to other pieces and to trim and flashing. When butt jointing siding, cut ends at 45 degree angles to form an overlapping joint.

9) Use One Nail Per Bearing
Bevel siding should be face-nailed to studs so that the nail penetrates 1½ in. into solid wood (1¼ in. for ring-shanked nails). Use one nail per bearing, spaced at a maximum of 24 in. on center.

10) Install Flat-Grain Siding with Textured Side Out
Installing flat-grained siding with the saw-textured, or rough, side exposed can help extend the service life of the finish coating. The coating adheres better to the rough-sawn side and thus offers a better surface bond. Brush application gives best coverage.

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Siding Install
 

 

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